Not in Northern Europe-spun3

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Not in Northern Europe
AMSTERDAM Is Northern Europe a destination in snow? The travel industry doesn seem to think so. Ski areas aside, most tours and cruises venture to Scandinavia,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Germany, and also the Netherlands in summer, when the days are stretched and soft.
I had always wondered what went on up within the quiet of winter. What did locals do for fun? Have there been seasonal bargains to be had,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]? And how could I take full advantage of the least touristy season?
And so i bought a 10-day Eurail Pass and sketched out an early February train route between Amsterdam, Copenhagen, and Stockholm. Round-trip flights from Boston to Amsterdam were unusually cheap, and when I checked a seating chart online, I discovered I had acres of aisle and window seats to choose from. To date so good.
Winter within the Netherlands capital and biggest city is supposed to deliver rain and sleet. However the day I checked into my Amsterdam hotel, there is a dusting of snow outside. Still, swans paddled round the fog-shrouded canals white on white.
A resident I talked with, Nicolette Corputty,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], urged me to rent a bicycle to obtain around. Hundreds of cyclists were rocketing past on the sidewalk at the time, angrily ringing and ringing their bells.
she insisted. just placed on leggings, your scarf. You're fine. And so i decided to walk instead. I weaved interior and exterior rows of gabled houses and ended up in the ice skating rink near the Rijksmuseum, where I downed a thick hot cocoa and tried some bits of a puffy pancake called a poffertje to ward off the cold.
The halls of the world-famous museum were all but deserted except for knots of art students sketching. I took time, imagining it was my own gallery and i also had plans to sell off some of the darker Dutch masters works and rearrange the paintings on the massive scale. The footsteps of a guard snapped me from my reverie. By late afternoon, I was back outside.
Everywhere there have been pinpoints of brightness that trigger the gray of street and snow. A window glinted with its stacks of yellow cheese wheels. Shutters I passed were painted a surprising blue. For a long period, I acquired lost in side streets. But as flakes of snow floated past I realized I didn care. I'd a long brick sidewalk and arched iron bridges all to myself and not even a stray bicycle in view.
About the train to Denmark the following day I was handed a voucher entitling me to free coffee, tea, or water the entire way. My compartment to myself,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I disseminate, cranked in the heat, and kicked off my shoes.
Nearly as far north as Moscow, Copenhagen depends upon ocean winds to mellow out and melt its snow. Whenever a day is icy, like the one on which I arrived, the Danish idea of hygge, or coziness, is necessary. Tea and Hygge! read a sign before a cafe. Inside, candles were lighted, there was a scent of soup, and out came platefuls of smorrebrod,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], open-faced sandwiches of ham, hard-boiled egg, and salmon something that can sit on bread.
After lunch, I visited the Copenhagen Amber Museum on Kongens Nytorv. It was quiet and warm. is actually fossils, explained Biyun Chen, a museum desk clerk, after i asked about ships and clocks made from the stuff. of pine resin in the forests of very long ago. When I asked Chen how I could be sure the amber was the real thing, he laughed. it! he said. will smell like pine trees. She isn dressed for February and looked hunched and cold. However the orange and rust-red facades that line the famous port of Nyhavn reflected the key sun. As if it were a few hours in August, they radiated and glowed.
Reaching Stockholm meant riding a train another 325 miles north, and the farms and houses that flew past looked as rich as pastries using their frosted tops.
The Stockholm air was sharp in my nostrils but no one there seemed to notice the cold. Commuters wore boots using their suits and children within their Day-Glo snowpants slid around like jelly beans spilled from the jar.
At the top of my sightseeing list was the salvaged wreck from the Vasa, the world only preserved 17th-century ship. As I found out, is the wrong word. This 1628 Swedish warship is immense. And it is almost entirely intact, as if hammered together within the cavernous museum.
Like the instances when I had seen a blue whale, or bones of the brontosaurus,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I needed just to walk round the display again and again. The museum chilly balconies let me peer at the Vasa from every imaginable angle, lacking sitting on its deck. To try to absorb it,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I got a mug of the strongest and hottest coffee the cafeteria offered.
look just like you require it, said the woman pouring. I smiled and swallowed slowly.
The dark strength from the drink, as well as the ship, did their work. As if fired from the Vasa cannon, I skidded around Stockholm Old Town, that was busy with shoppers,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and crossed a bridge that led me to a neighborhood called Elegant apartments lighted my way up a slippery hill.
When I got to the very best,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], something caught my eye. It was a golden ornament,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a statue of the stork standing guard over its neighborhood shop. Apothecary, said its sign. in Sweden. But due to the weather he had a little hat of snow. Something about him said, which in my experience meant, survive. Like the pine-resin amber. Like the Vasa.
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